Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications

Συγγραφείς: Sakamoto et al
ISBN: 9780128020050
Εκδότης: ELSEVIER
Σελίδες: 854
Διαστάσεις: 216 X 276 mm
Έτος Έκδοσης: 2017

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Author Info Edited by Kazutami Sakamoto, Professor, Fellow of the Chemical Society of Japan, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiba Institute of Science, Choshi-city, Chiba, Japan; Robert Lochhead, School of Polymers and High Performance Materials, The Univ. of Southern Mississipi, Hattiesburg, MS, USA; Howard Maibach, Professor of Dermatology, University of California, San Francisco, USA and Yuji Yamashita, Chiba Institute of Science, 3 Shiomicho, Choshi, Chiba Prefecture, Japan

Table of Contents:

Part I. General View of Cosmetic Science and Technology

Chapter 1. General Aspects of Cosmetics in Relation to Science and Society: Social, Cultural, Science, and Marketing Aspects

1.1. Cosmetic Science and Society
1.2. The Establishment of Humans and Society
1.3. Society and the Foundation of Cosmetic Culture
1.4. The Culture of Cosmetics and Establishment of Cosmetic Philosophy: A Case Study in Japan
1.5. Progress of Scientific Technology and History of the Cosmetics Industry in Japan
1.6. Science, Technology, and Social Demands
1.7. Science, Technology, and Marketing

Chapter 2. Global Cosmetic R&D Trends Unveiled From Past IFSCC Award-Winning Papers

2.1. Introduction
2.2. The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists
2.3. Tracing the History of Articles Presented at IFSCC Congresses/Conferences
2.4. Trends Interpreted From Award-Winning Papers
2.5. Conclusion

Chapter 3. Basic Physical Sciences for the Formulation of Cosmetic Products

3.1. Introduction
3.2. The Basic Sciences of Cleansing

Chapter 4. Scouting to Meet Unmet Needs

4.1. Introduction
4.2. Value of Technology Scouting
4.3. Technology Scout
4.4. Scouting Organization
4.5. Organizational Scouting Models
4.6. Scouting Function
4.7. General Scouting Process
4.8. Challenges
4.9. Front-end Homework/Creation of the “Needs” Brief
4.10. Scouting Resources
4.11. Why Do You Need It?
4.12. Conclusions

Chapter 5. New Aspects of Cosmetics and Cosmetic Science

5.1. The Scope of Cosmetic Science
5.2. Technologies That Support Cosmetic Science
5.3. Functions of the Skin
5.4. Conclusions

Chapter 6. Psychology of Cosmetic Behavior

6.1. Prehistory of Cosmetics
6.2. History of Cosmetics
6.3. Psychology of Skin Care
6.4. Psychology of Makeup
6.5. Psychology of Fragrance
6.6. Cosmetic Behavior as an Emotion Control Device

Chapter 7. Dermatological Benefits of Cosmetics

7.1. Introduction
7.2. Skin Care Products
7.3. Antiwrinkle and Antiaging Agents
7.4. Acne Cosmetics
7.5. Hair Growth Agent
7.6. Antiperspirants and Deodorants
7.7. Makeup Products
7.8. Conclusions

Chapter 8. Development of Cosmetics and Intellectual Property Rights

8.1. Introduction
8.2. The Need for Intellectual Property Rights
8.3. What Is an Intellectual Property Right?
8.4. Chapter I Patent Law
8.5. Chapter II Design Patent Law
8.6. Chapter III Trademark Law
8.7. Chapter IV Copyrights
8.8. Chapter V Unfair Competition Prevention Law
8.9. Chapter VI Cooperative Research and Development Agreement in Research and Development of Cosmetics
8.10. In Conclusion

Chapter 9. Regulations on Cosmetics

9.1. Introduction
9.2. Regulations on Cosmetics per Region
9.3. Labeling
9.4. Cosmetics Ingredient Restrictions
9.5. Closing Remarks

Part II. Fundamental Resources for Cosmetics

Chapter 10. Introduction to Cosmetic Materials

10.1. Introduction
10.2. Purposes of Cosmetic Materials
10.3. Precautions on Choosing and Using Cosmetic Ingredients
10.4. Future Challenges in Cosmetics Material Development
10.5. Closing Remarks

Chapter 11. Nomenclature of Ingredients

11.1. Introduction
11.2. History
11.3. INCI Basics
11.4. Botanical Names
11.5. INCI Names and CAS
11.6. INCI Names and CosIng
11.7. Applying for an INCI Name
11.8. Conclusions

Chapter 12. Water

12.1. Introduction
12.2. Basic Physical Properties and Biological Roles of Water
12.3. Cell Membranes and Water
12.4. The Skin and Water
12.5. Conclusions

Chapter 13. The Use of Polymers in Cosmetic Products

13.1. Rheology Modifiers
13.2. Precise Molecular Tailoring for Simultaneous Enablement of Contrasting Qualities
13.3. Polymers That Modify Surfaces
13.4. Transfer-Resistant Color Cosmetics
13.5. Film-Forming Polymers in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products
13.6. Hair-Conditioning Polymers
13.7. Polymers for the Treatment of Skin
13.8. Polymers as Controlled Release Matrices
13.9. Dendritic Polymers
13.10. Polymeric Antimicrobials and Bacteriostats
13.11. Environmental and Ecological Considerations
13.12. Summary

Chapter 14. Powders and Inorganic Materials

14.1. History of Powders in Cosmetics
14.2. Powders Used in Cosmetics
14.3. Conclusions

Chapter 15. Surfactants

15.1. Introduction
15.2. Characteristics and Classification of Surfactants
15.3. Micellization of Surfactants
15.4. Solubility of Surfactants
15.5. Adsorption of Surfactants
15.6. Mixed Surfactant Systems
15.7. Conclusions

Chapter 16. Emollients

16.1. Introduction
16.2. Types of Emollients
16.3. Evaluation of Emollients
16.4. The Future of Emollients

Chapter 17. Bioactive Ingredients: Benefits of Cosmetics Stimulated Through Biological Aspects

17.1. Introduction
17.2. Development Directions of Bioactive Ingredients
17.3. Overview of Pigmented Spots
17.4. Overview of Antiaging Focusing on Wrinkling
17.5. Conclusions

Chapter 18. Fragrance

18.1. Introduction
18.2. Natural Products
18.3. Aroma Chemicals
18.4. Fragrance Creation and Duplication
18.5. Polarity
18.6. Fragrance Applications
18.7. Physical Chemistry of Aroma Chemicals
18.8. Encapsulation and Controlled Release
18.9. Antibacterial Effects of Essential Oils
18.10. Malodor
18.11. Safety and Regulatory Concerns
18.12. The Regulation of Fragrance
18.13. Natural, Green, Organic, and Sustainable Fragrances
18.14. Fragrance and the Mind
18.15. The Fragrance Brief
18.16. Conclusions
18.17. A Basic Fragrance Library

Chapter 19. Amino Acids, Peptides, and Proteins

19.1. Introduction
19.2. Chemistry of Amino Acids, Peptides, and Proteins
19.3. Proteins and Amino Acids as Biochemical Compounds
19.4. Amino Acids in Cosmetics
19.5. Peptides in Cosmetics
19.6. Proteins in Cosmetics
19.7. Conclusions

Chapter 20. Botanical Ingredients

20.1. Introduction
20.2. Botanical Substances
20.3. Regulations Regarding Botanical Substances
20.4. Organic Cosmetics
20.5. The Effectiveness of Botanical Substances
20.6. The Future and Challenges in Botanical Substance Development
20.7. Closing Remarks

Chapter 21. Functional Materials for Hair

21.1. Introduction
21.2. Functional Materials for Hair Shampoos
21.3. Co-Washing/Conditioning Washing/Cleansing Conditioners
21.4. Mild Shampoos
21.5. Alternatives for Sulfates
21.6. Pre-Damage/Pre-Shampoos
21.7. Conditioners
21.8. Interactions With Hair
21.9. Hair Damage and Its Causes
21.10. Conditioning Polymers: Silicone Oils and Derivatives
21.11. Silicone-Free Alternatives
21.12. Leading Global Hair Care Market Trends
21.13. New Age of Connectivity
21.14. Products Having “Free-From” Claims
21.15. Botanical/Herbal Ingredients
21.16. Sun Care-Inspired Solutions: Ultraviolet Protection
21.17. Skin Care-Inspired Solutions: Antipollution/Reconstruction
21.18. Color Statements/Protection/Renewal
21.19. Antiaging
21.20. Scalp Protecting
21.21. Sensorial Experience: Long-Lasting Fragrance
21.22. Sustainable Solutions: Use of Natural/Renewable Ingredients/New Product Forms
21.23. Consumer Needs and Drivers
21.24. Conclusions

Chapter 22. Nanotechnology in Cosmetics

22.1. Introduction
22.2. Skin Structure and Function
22.3. Major Nanocosmeceutical Applications
22.4. Nanoparticles Used in Cosmetics
22.5. Toxicity of Nanoparticles
22.6. Safety Requisites for a Blooming Beauty
22.7. Nanomaterials and the EU Cosmetics Regulations
22.8. Nanocosmeceuticals in Market
22.9. Future Trends in Nanocosmeceuticals
22.10. Conclusions

Part III. Physicochemical Aspects and Formulations

Chapter 23. Wetting and Surface Characterization

23.1. Introduction
23.2. Wetting on the Flat Surfaces
23.3. Wetting on Rough Surfaces
23.4. Super Water- and Oil-Repellent Surfaces Resulting From Fractal Structure
23.5. Wetting Phenomena in Cosmetic Science and Technology
23.6. Future Perspectives on the Wetting Technologies in Cosmetics

Chapter 24. Molecular Structure and Phase Behavior of Surfactants

24.1. Introduction
24.2. Notations in Phase Diagram
24.3. Phase Diagram in Surfactant System
24.4. Self-Organized Structure
24.5. Anionic Surfactants
24.6. Cationic Surfactants
24.7. Nonionic Surfactants
24.8. Sugar-Based Surfactants
24.9. Conclusions

Chapter 25. Lamellar Gel Network

25.1. Introduction
25.2. Unique Advantages of Lamellar Gel Networks
25.3. a-Gel
25.4. Cetostearyl Alcohol
25.5. Surfactants for Lamellar Gel Networks
25.6. Multiphase Network Structure
25.7. Lamellar Gel (Lß) Phase
25.8. Bulk Water Phase
25.9. Oil Phase
25.10. Fatty Alcohol Hydrated Crystal
25.11. Stability of Lamellar Gel Network
25.12. Formulation Spaces of Various Lamellar Gel Networks
25.13. Summary

Chapter 26. Polymer-Surfactant Interactions

26.1. Introduction
26.2. Homopolymer-Ionic Surfactant Systems Show Association
26.3. Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Systems May Show Two-Step Association
26.4. Amphiphilic Polymer Self-assembly
26.5. Phase Separation Is Common for Polymer-Surfactant Mixtures
26.6. Gels: Thermal Gelation, Chemical Gels, and Microgel Particles
26.7. Surfactant-Polyelectrolyte Mixtures at Interfaces

Chapter 27. Rheology of Cosmetic Formulations

27.1. Introduction
27.2. Rheological Parameters and Their Measurements
27.3. Surfactant Solutions, Their Micellar Structures and Rheological Properties
27.4. Surfactant Solutions and Additives
27.5. Microemulsions
27.6. Emulsions
27.7. Hydrogels and Organogels
27.8. Foams
27.9. Liquid Crystals

Chapter 28. Emulsion and Emulsification Technology

28.1. Introduction
28.2. Definition and Classification of Emulsion
28.3. Properties of Surfactant on Emulsification
28.4. Selection of Emulsifier Suitable for Applications: Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance Number
28.5. Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance Number of Oil (Required HLB Number)
28.6. Destabilizing Factors of Emulsions and Their Handling Methods
28.7. Emulsification Methods
28.8. Conclusion

Chapter 29. Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions for Cosmetic Applications

29.1. Introduction
29.2. Microemulsions
29.3. Nano-emulsions
29.4. Cosmetic Applications of Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions
29.5. Microemulsion and Nano-emulsion Components
29.6. Percutaneous Absorption of Actives From Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions
29.7. Conclusions

Chapter 30. Effect of Molecular Assembly for Emulsion and Gel Formulations

30.1. Introduction
30.2. Formation and the Characterization of Lyotropic Liquid Crystals and a-Gels
30.3. Molecular Assembly and Emulsion
30.4. Liquid Crystal Emulsification
30.5. Application of Molecular Assemblies to Functional Cosmetics
30.6. Conclusions

Chapter 31. Liposomes for Cosmetics

31.1. Introduction
31.2. Property of Phospholipids
31.3. Liposomes
31.4. Liposome Formation Conditions
31.5. Morphology of Liposomes
31.6. Stability of Liposomes
31.7. Effectiveness of Liposome Formulations
31.8. Cutaneous Absorption of Liposome Formulations
31.9. Closing Remarks

Chapter 32. Skin Care Cosmetics

32.1. Introduction
32.2. Functions of Skin Care Cosmetics
32.3. Structuring Components and Technology of Skin Care Cosmetics
32.4. Solubilization
32.5. Ultrafine Emulsification
32.6. Emulsions
32.7. Emulsification
32.8. Recent Progress of Oil-in-Water Emulsification in Skin Care Cosmetics
32.9. Conclusion

Chapter 33. Body Care Cosmetics

33.1. Introduction
33.2. Body Cleansers
33.3. Mildness to Skin and Sensory Feeling
33.4. Foaming Technology
33.5. Reconsideration for Satisfying Both Detergency and Skin Mildness
33.6. Conclusion

Chapter 34. Makeup Cosmetics

34.1. Introduction
34.2. Types and Characteristics of Foundations
34.3. Makeup Finishes
34.4. Other Factors
34.5. Conclusion

Chapter 35. Ultraviolet Care Cosmetics

35.1. Importance of Sun Care Cosmetics
35.2. Sunscreen Agents
35.3. Required Functionality as Sun Care Cosmetics
35.4. Evaluation and Declaration of Sunscreen Capacity for Cosmetics
35.5. Summary

Chapter 36. Hair Care Cosmetics

36.1. Functions of Hair Care Cosmetics
36.2. Shampoos
36.3. Hair Conditioners
36.4. Hair Styling Products
36.5. Hair Coloring Products
36.6. Permanent Hair Waving Products
36.7. Conclusions

Chapter 37. Sensory Measurement-Evaluation and Testing of Cosmetic Products

37.1. Introduction-Why Sensory Analysis?
37.2. Haptic-Sensory Fundamentals
37.3. Application of Sensory for Cosmetics
37.4. Influence of Raw Material Formulation on the Sensor
37.5. Procedures and General Factors Influencing Sensory Test Methods
37.6. Methods
37.7. Focus Test Requirements of the Descriptive Profile Test
37.8. Future Outlook

Chapter 38. Structural Analysis of Formulations

38.1. Introduction
38.2. Colloidal Dispersion System
38.3. Characterization of Colloids
38.4. Micelles
38.5. Liquid Crystals
38.6. Emulsions
38.7. Conclusion

Chapter 39. Increasing Productivity by Reducing Carbon Footprint in Cosmetics Processing

39.1. Introduction
39.2. Understanding the Nature and Effects of Variables
39.3. The Principle of Less Is More
39.4. Low-Energy Emulsification
39.5. Different Ways to Carry Out Low-Energy Emulsification
39.6. The Importance of Finding the Z-Point
39.7. An Example of “Less Is More” Low-Energy Emulsification Processing
39.8. Low-Energy Emulsification to Prevent Batch Failure, Improve Product Quality, and Save Energy
39.9. Using Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance Method to Find Optimal Surfactant Combinations for Emulsification
3.10. Solubilization Method in Low-Surfactant Emulsification
39.11. Other Applications of “Less Is More” Principle and Low-Energy Emulsification
39.12. Conclusions

Part IV. Physiological and Dermatological Aspects

Chapter 40. Structure and Function of Skin From a Cosmetic Aspect

40.1. Introduction
40.2. Role of the Skin
40.3. Fundamental Structure of the Skin
40.4. Epidermis
40.5. Dermis
40.6. Appendages
40.7. Regional Variation of the Skin
40.8. Barrier Functions of the Skin
40.9. Conclusions

Chapter 41. Skin Lipids

41.1. Introduction
41.2. Lipids in Skin
41.3. Epidermal Lipid Synthesis
41.4. Skin Surface Lipid
41.5. Lipid Mediators
41.6. Lipids in Cosmetics
41.7. Barrier Care (Repair) Using Cosmetics to Improve Skin Disease

Chapter 42. Structural Aspects of Stratum Corneum

42.1. Introduction
42.2. X-ray Diffraction Study on Stratum Corneum
42.3. Highly Sensitive Detection of Minute Structural Change on Applying Chemical Agents
42.4. Penetration Route of Hydrophilic Molecules in Stratum Corneum
42.5. Penetration Route of Hydrophobic Molecules in Stratum Corneum
42.6. Behavior of Water in Stratum Corneum
42.7. Water Regulation Mechanism in Stratum Corneum at the Molecular Level

Chapter 43. Skin Aging

43.1. Difference Between Aging and Senescence
43.2. Senescence From the Molecular Level to the Systemic Level
43.3. Progress and Issues in Senescence Research
43.4. Chronic Inflammation and Senescence
43.5. Sirtuin and Resveratrol
43.6. Strategies in Research on Skin Aging
43.7. Issues to be Resolved and Future Considerations

Chapter 44. Melanogenesis

44.1. Introduction
44.2. Instances of Skin-Lightening QDs Developed in Japan
44.3. Conclusions

Chapter 45. Sensitive Skin

45.1. Introduction
45.2. Assessment of Sensitive Skin
45.3. Conclusions

Chapter 46. Skin Penetration

46.1. Introduction
46.2. A Little Bit About History
46.3. Skin Structure/Properties
46.4. Factors Affecting the Skin Barrier
46.5. Assessing the Skin Barrier
46.6. Overcoming the Skin Barrier
46.7. Skin Penetration
46.8. Evaluation of Skin Penetration
46.9. Future Directions

Chapter 47. Effects of Air Pollution on Skin: Dermatologic Options

47.1. Introduction
47.2. Materials and Methods
47.3. Results
47.4. Discussion
47.5. Conclusions and Future Considerations

Chapter 48. Hair Physiology (Hair Growth, Alopecia, Scalp Treatment, etc.)

48.1. Introduction
48.2. Basic Concepts, Hair Biology, Cause of Hair Loss, and Treatments
48.3. Hair Growth-Promoting Compounds
48.4. Light-Emitting Diodes, Lasers, and Other Cosmetic Surgeries
48.5. Growth Factor Cocktail, Cell Culture Media Injection, and Platelet-Rich Plasma
48.6. Hair Transplantation
48.7. Future Treatment in Cosmetics: Regeneration of Hair Follicles by Autologous Cell-Based Therapy for Hair Loss
48.8. Summary and Future Directions

Chapter 49. Clinical Evaluation and Instrumental Techniques in Dermatology

Chapter 50. Safety Evaluation