Cosmetically Active Ingredients: Recent Advances

Cosmetically Active Ingredients: Recent Advances is designed to be a practical handbook for formulators looking for the latest in active ingredients, covering everything you need to know in the following sections:

Barrier & Skin Moisturization progresses from a review of ceramides and other lipids of the cutaneous barrier to aquaporins and water-binding receptors in the deeper layers of the skin—while also investigating the process of exfoliation by which the skin‘s epidermal layer renews and rejuvenates itself.

Antiaging is divided into two subsections—Peptides and Other Concepts. The former covers how most peptides used at present are shown to have the capacity to stimulate skin repair, while further describing peptides bearing antioxidant, firming and neurocosmetic properties. The latter subsection contains many different approaches to help the skin look younger, from skin chromophore homogenization to sirtuin stimulation, from rose extracts with UV protection to stimulating metabolic processes in the cells.

Sensitive Skin & Irritation/Inflammation describes ingredients, often plant-derived, that help the skin defend itself against inflammation, irritation and other aggressors. Concepts are based on many different mechanisms, from inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis, to interesting antioxidant strategies, from DNA repair to reduction of histamine release and others.

Skin Toning contains chapters that describe skin whitening (i.e. brightening, lightening) activities to reduce melanin content in the skin, as well as discussions of what helps the skin obtain a better looking tan, either artificially, such as with DHA, or by accelerating the natural process.

Hair Care investigates innovative ingredients that improve the appearance and structure of hair. Discussions on antidandruff and on female baldness, along with a quite recent article on preventing hair loss, open up the field of biological activity.

The final section, Miscellaneous, contains papers that illustrate the fact that all kinds of ingredients in a formula may have cosmetic activity, even if they are not initially designed to be realized as actives, and offers a brief look at the importance and prevalence of ingredients for cellulite treatment—a major growth segment of the personal care industry.